Page 60 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.3.33
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Power Looms and Handlooms

Healds used in weaving

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• list the types of healds used in weaving.

1 Introduction: Healds (or heddles) are an essential • Used in high-speed looms for better warp control.
part of the weaving process. They are responsible Open-ended healds
for controlling the warp threads, creating the shed
through which the weft passes. The selection of healds • Feature an open loop at the top and bottom for easy
depends on the type of loom, fabric specifications, and warp insertion.
weaving technique. This lesson explores different • Used in automatic drawing-in looms to reduce
types of healds based on their material, structure, downtime.
and function.
4 Types of healds based on function
2 Types of healds based on material
Harness healds
Wire healds
• Attached to harness frames that control multiple warp
• Made of thin, high-quality steel wire. threads.
• Have an eyelet (central opening) to pass the warp • Used in multi-shaft looms for twill, satin, and dobby
thread through. weaves.

• Used in power looms and high-speed automatic Doup healds
looms.
• Special healds used in leno weaving (net and gauze
• Provide smooth passage for the warp thread, reducing fabrics).
breakage.
• Help in twisting warp threads to create open mesh
• Available in different sizes based on warp thickness. structures.
Flat steel healds Jacquard healds
• Made of flat steel strips for greater stability. • Found in Jacquard looms for intricate pattern weaving.

• Stronger and more durable than wire healds. • Each warp thread is controlled individually for highly
• Used in high-speed industrial looms. detailed designs.
• Reduces warp entanglement and friction. • Used in weaving brocade, damask, and tapestry
fabrics.
Synthetic healds
Cord healds
• Made from polyester or nylon.
• Made of fine cords instead of wire or steel.
• Lightweight, flexible, and corrosion-resistant.
• Used in some traditional and Jacquard looms.
• Common in handlooms and Jacquard looms.
• Provide smooth movement of warp threads, reducing
• Reduce friction and wear on warp threads.
breakage.
Gut healds 5 Types of healds based on eyelet shape
• Made from twisted gut fibers or strong cotton fibers.
Round eye healds
• Traditionally used in handlooms.
• Standard circular eyelet for guiding warp threads.
• Less durable than modern steel or synthetic healds. • Commonly used for general weaving.
3 Types of healds based on structure
Oblong eye healds
Ordinary healds
• Have an elongated eyelet to allow freer movement of
• Have a simple single eye in the middle for warp warp threads.
threading. • Reduce friction in high-speed weaving.
• Used in plain weaving and basic fabric structures.
Twin eye healds
Twisted wire healds
• Feature two eyelets instead of one.
• Twisted wire construction provides added durability.

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